Land’s End: Journey To The Tip Of India

Achal Dhruva explores his way around Kanyakumari

Sunset at Kanyakumari

“Let us go then you and I, Where the ocean is spread out against the sky Two insignificant specks into the horizon Through the endless waters of time....” (with apologies to T S Eliot)

Standing on the rocks lashed by waves, staring at the never ending deep blue expanse all around, a strange sense of tranquillity suffused me. Mesmerised by the sweeping vista of the Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea from the rocky outcrop behind Vivekanand Rock Memorial, away from the milling tourists, realisation dawned, “Man is but a mere insignificant speck in the universe”.

Kanyakumari skyline

Vivekananda Rock Memorial

On the Kanyakumari-Nagercoil road

A beach adjoining Vattakotai Fort

Back view of Vivekananda Rock Memorial

It’s not surprising that Swami Vivekanand was inspired to start a mission to spread the message of Hinduism while meditating on this rock. During his travels across India after the death of his guru Sri Ramakrishna Paramhans, in 1892, Swami Vivekananda had swam out to this huge half submerged rock 500 meters from the shore to meditate. Vivekanand Rock Memorial, a synthesis of distinctive styles of temple architecture across the country, was erected on this rock in 1970 and is today a ten-minute ferry ride from Kanyakumari.

The memorial is one of the major tourist attraction of the small sleepy town of Kanyakumari. Nestling between vast green stretches of paddy fields and coconut groves, Kanyakumari is not only the southernmost point of India and the confluence of Bay of Bengal, the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean but also an important Hindu pilgrimage centre.

Kanyakumari derives its name from from Goddess Kanyakumari Amman, the presiding deity of the area. Legend has it that the Goddess Parvati, in one of her incarnations as Devi Kanya, did penance on one of the rocks of this land’s end to obtain the hand of Lord Shiva. Kumari Amman or the Kanyakumari Temple, dedicated to this Devi, is picturesquely located overlooking the shore and attracts tourists from all over the world. The diamond nose-ring of the deity is famous for its sparkling splendour and is said to be visible even from the sea. Men are required to remove their shirts prior to entering the temple.

Referred to as the Alexandria of the East, Kanyakumari was a well known commercial and trading centre besides being a centre for art and culture. Islam, Christianity and Jainism have greatly contributed to the architectural wealth and literary heritage of this place which flourished under the rule of the Cholas, the Cheras, the Pandyas and the Nayaks.

The Portuguese Church with its beautiful archaic structure is a major monument of Christian influence. The massive towering spires and stained glass window panes contribute to the overall grandeur of the Church. As you enter the church the simplicity of the interiors, a sharp contrast to the ornate Gothic exteriors is the first thing, which strike you. There are no pews and the congregation sits on the sandy floor of white powdery sand. A tiny cross adorns the altar. A walk down to the fishing jetty behind the church is quite interesting especially if the boats have just come in with their catch. Fresh fish at really dirt cheap prices with a large turtle going for just Rs 500 is incentive enough to walk down to the jetty.

Besides fishing, tourism is the main-stay of Kanyakumari, famous for its unique beach with multicoloured sand and the spectacular sunrises and sunsets, especially on full moon days. On a full moon night, also termed as Chaita Purnima (in April), the setting sun and the rising moon glow simultaneously on the horizon.

Kanyakumari is perhaps the only place in India where observing these two daily phenomenons of nature is raised to the level of a ritual. Kanyakumari wakes up regularly at 5.30 am to a cacophony of alarm clocks and wake up calls.

Tourists, pilgrims and locals flock like migratory birds to either Sunrise Point or the terrace of their hotels by 6 am waiting for the majestic sight of daybreak to unfold. The image of the night-sky gradually transforming into various hues of pastel colours with the silhouette of fishing boats in the foreground as the sun rises above the horizon of the Bay of Bengal remains etched in memory for a long time.

Sunsets are equally spectacular and the beach lining the Arabian Sea, a tiny strip of multicoloured sand, is crowded with people waiting for the grand finale of the day. Watching the sunset is the only activity one can indulge in on this beach which is rocky and dangerous for swimming. The sea is fairly rough and the waves pounding against the rocks, subsiding and gathering again for another onslaught keeps you engaged till the huge red orb in the sky goes down in a blaze of glory. The lighthouse is also worth a visit for the panoramic view.

Kanyakumari is a wonderful destination for a laid back holiday.